(Note: This is a reworked post originally written for my own blog a few years ago, but I think the subject is still relevant for anyone contemplating painting game-models.)
I had for a long time planned to paint the playing pieces in Days of Wonders game Shadows over Camelot. But it was first when I got the expansion Merlin’s Company I got to it. All in all it took roughly 12 hours to paint everything, if you disregard the 48 hours I let the undercoat dry before I started painting.
Included are the pictures of the knights as well as the objects they try to secure for the round table, the magician himself, and not to forget the dangerous barbarians that threaten the fair Isle of Avalon. Note that all the ordinary knight-figures doubles as playing pieces for two different knights.
The knights armour, was painted using the the following 4 step process I use for small scale armour:
1. Undercoat with flat black, leave to dry, and then check for coverage.
2. Drybrush with boltgun metal (I use paints from the citadels paint range) a dark metallic colour, but not as dark as true gunmetal.
3. Drybrush with chainmail, or a similar medium dark metallic colour.
3a. If need be, say to give more depth, give the model a black wash, and repeat step 3.
4. Pick out highlights and raised edges with mithril silver, or a similar light metallic colour.
This works as well on chainmail, as platemail or full plate.
If you want a coloured effect, e.g. for the Green Knight of Arthurian legend, a glaze wash on top of the finished armour does the trick.
A rusty, or dirty look can be achieved by using dwarven bronze mixed into the metallic colours. This works well for undead, or chaotic models. A bit of flat red-brown streaks to signify streaks of rust can then be added, but don’t overdo it!
Exposed skin is best painted with a medium skin tone, given a brownish wash, and then highlights picked out in the original tone and then a lighter tone (2/3s original tone 1/3 white is usually ok)
Armour is best painted on a black undercoat but for the bright colours, a second, flat white undercoat is needed, especially for the semitransparent colours like yellow and red.
The bases where finished by giving them a earthen undercoat, before diluted white glue (can be diluted with water) was brushed on using an old disheveled brush, and flock was applied. The glue dries clear, and the effect is really much better than the sculpted grass on some of the bases.
It’s not really that difficult or time consuming, and this is a perfect way to “pimp” your boardgames.
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